Understand electric furnaces and air handlers

I'm aav armor here do preventive maintenance on an air handler a big difference between an air handler and a gas furnace just has electric heat you're in a place live in a neighborhood that don't have propane or natural gas this is a good alternative they're not as common cuz a lot of the country they have propane but a lot of houses they don't have natural gas or propane so they have this this is a good alternative so you can have central heat and air

okay here's kind of the two schools of thoughts on heat pumps it's cold outside or you're not getting a lot of heat out of your heat pump shut it off and let your heat strips take care and save your wear and tear on your on your heat pump the other school of thought is the one that I subscribe to is even though it's cold outside there's still heat outside in this cold air that we can capture and we can send it inside by using the heat pump and by doing this we can still heat your house or your business effectively a typical house may have three heat strips in it and each heat strip will pull 20 amps of power so when you're heating your house you're going to be pulling 60 amps to heat your tricep whereas your heat pump it pulls 20 amps about approximately give or take even though we're not getting as much heat out of the outside air and sending in as we would on a warmer day we can still heat your house and save money by running your heat pump and using 20 amps of power as opposed to running 60. so let your heat pump run let's stay warm

So, what is an HVAC system and how does it work? HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. So, HVAC is the full system of equipment that keeps your house comfortable whether it's summer or it's winter. So, an air conditioner and a heat pump don't actually produce cold air. What they do is they remove hot air in your home and bring it outside. If you've ever held your hand over the outdoor condenser and felt hot air, that is heat leaving your home via the condenser fan. [Music]

Usually when there's a problem with this transformer, it's because we actually have a short. Now, if you saw my last part, it actually has a fuse built in. Most of them nowadays have fuses. It did not happen that way back in the day. I bet they replace quite a few of these, but for how expensive these are, a fuse is a lot cheaper. Now, what we do see with these, like I said, is shorts. And every once in a while, that fuse doesn't protect it. [Music]

Now I'm just going to kind of check my blower amps. Amperage we're getting about 4.15. To let us know if that's within range, you go to the name plate here from the factory, it'll let you know your fan load amps. So, it's about 6.30. So, you want that to be below the factory requirements. If it gets above that, that's when you know, "Hey, your motor's working harder than it should." But, with it being below that, it's working within within range.

You couldn't have the efficiency that you have nowadays without a control board. It has major safety mechanisms all built in. So, they are a must. Great to see that we're having one product have the same board as another. That means I have more chance of having it on my truck. Uh manufacturer has a chance of having it in their store and it usually cuts down on cost, too. [singing and music]

First part we're going to be looking at is a transformer. Now, transformers are found in almost every single HVAC system out there. They're very common way for us to control the system. We want to use that low voltage as a way to control it. Makes it a lot safer than using high voltage. This one is actually a 240 to 24-V transformer. They come in different sizes. For this one we're using 240-V. All that means is we're stepping down the voltage from 240 and we're just making it safer 24 V so we can control things like your fan, contactors for your elements and stuff like that. Most common issues you usually see with these is they're very common to have a short actually damage these. That's why most new units will have a fuse in line to try to protect this. They can go out over age, but most time if a transformer goes out, it's because of another reason. Age for these, like I said, they don't typically go out. They can last the life of the unit. This one here right here is the original one to the unit. It's usually not this transformer that's going out. It's something else that's causing it. Typical price on these is about $275. So, let's go ahead and look at another component.

This is a blower wheel. These typically don't need to be replaced. They usually last quite a bit. Now, there is a chance that they could have damage on them, especially if you have a motor go out. Typical thing you want to look out for these is dirt on the blades. This can actually cause your airflow to slow down, causing your motor to stress out more. Normal cost on that cleaning is usually anywhere from $250 to $300. And that's what I tell people about this part.

how much dust is on the blower seen quite a bit of buildup on that blower definitely I'm going to suggest cleaning the blower anytime you have a blower that's dirty like that they always cause problems for your blower motor uh that blower wheel any kind of extra weight is going to weigh down that blower we want to make sure that they're nice and clean and this one could could stand to you're also going to think a motor is going to work harder and so it's not going to last as long when it's got debris like that really the motor on here looks like at one point it was changed out that motor looks pretty new now that Capac probably is new too most of the time if somebody's going to replace a motor they're going to replace Capac

here we have an interesting one this is actually a sequencer if you're one of those guys that does this a lot you might go that's not a sequencer this is this is an old school sequencer you don't see them like this anymore usually they're they're stacked up little kind of disc same Principle as they've always been all they are is a component where we can actually kind of do a time delay for your heat strips and that's what it's for is we don't want to bring on all heat strips all at once what happens is is your heat strips are going to be the highest amp draw you have on your unit and so when those heat strips call you don't want to bring all heat strips on at once you want to Stage it out and that's where these Heat sequencers come in handy kind of problems we usually find on these is they have points inside of them they get really hot they usually break down you'll start mess with them you'll start seeing the plastic brake cuz it it'll get so hot that's one reason you always want to make sure that you are having it maintained checked because these do go out and it's better to catch them before than after they've caused a problem but this is not what they typically look like nowadays this is a very interesting one on a price for a sequencer is going to vary because we have many different types of sequencers and different functions for them but you're going to look at anywhere from $280 and up for the replacing this sequencer onward to the next

So right now you want to have to play with these air handlers, they can get up to between 140. But another safety switch in this one they have high limits. So if they do get too hot and your system doesn't recognize it, the high limits will kick off the unit and let let us know hey there's a problem. So then we start diagnosing why does high limit going off. So that's when we start diagnosing the heat strip, maybe it's pushing off too too heat. Breaker going bad. Just got to wait now let the heat just rise up. Let the temperature display do its thing that would let us know here's our wet bulb, our humidity, our dew point. And usually want that range to be about 20 to 35 during uh wintertime. So we have 66° coming in, about 85 coming out. But like I said, we just now put them in so it's going to take a little bit to kind of run properly. So your delta T right here is at the bottom. All it is is just a difference between your supply and return. So it's the it's the hot air that's pushing out and the return the return dry bulb is the air that's sucking in. So usually you want that in wintertime you want to be about 20 to 35° difference. And that's what the delta T is on the probe here. It's just the difference between the supply and return dry bulb.

here we go with some electric heat strips I know somebody's out there going that's not electric heat strips I've seen electric heat strips these are some electric heat strips they are not what you usually see uh nowadays we have what electric heat strips were just coils that run around here this is kind of an old school way of doing things this will be your heat strips all your heat would be coming from here this one is actually 15 KW it's old but it looks like it's all intact typically don't see too many problems with them other ones you'll have shorts that can happen on them and stuff like that typically we can get another heat kit for cheaper and have it put in and then that heat kit will actually have a warranty most of the you know most of the heat kits that we we put in if we had to go back with another heat kit you would get a 5-year warranty so restringing them is not something we do a lot of I am not a big fan of restringing I would much rather see something new so whenever I'm going to be replacing this whether it be restringing it or actual replacing the whole heat kit we need to quote it out you're looking at probably around $11,000 to replace it and your limits it will replace all those parts definitely if you have anything to do with a heat kit we need to uh to price that out to you and get you a quote

so what I'm looking at is I can fill oil residue around the around the shaft of the motor in there and so that's an indication that that motor's getting hot and and leaking oil well once it leaks enough oil out that motor will start grinding in the bearings eventually will lock up on it so that's an indication of uh I'm going to recommend replacing at least replacing that motor and the Capac comes with it

rust in the heat exchanger is indicative of you know potential future you know cracks and future leaks that happen you know that could potentially lead to um carbon monoxide production so that's you know why it's so imperative to have your your heater checked uh annually especially if you have a gas uh you know a gas heating system or a propane heating system you if it's resistance heat uh if it's an electric uh Total Electric System you know the same is true you know we want to make sure that we're not overamping uh you know those those heating elements those things draw a bunch of energy you know and if you're tired of of jacking with uh with high energy bills during the winter uh and if you have a total Electric System you know the one there's a lot of utility rebates and two there's a lot of equipment rebates to transfer over to uh a heat pump of some sort or a dual fuel system or you know higher efficiency in general um that will really help save a lot of money for you in the winter time

this how we'll kind of test our heat strips the easier way to do it kind of color coordinated there's two 60m Breakers I'm going to go kick this unit on real quick and we're going to test these heat stri thermostat on half the brake is turned off it's going to ramp up cuz an ECM motor no capacitor we're going to wait a little bit so sometimes they do have it on instantly you want to have around 20 amps so 35 cuz they are joined in together it should be around 40 but 35 with the just now turning on perfectly normal we're going to let it run same way with these ones these two are joined in together this is two separate brakes or two separate heat STP

pulled this blower wheel we didn't really have suspicion of anything being wrong other than the fact that I am going to recommend it being cleaned but while we've got it out give it a free Spin check it not much wobble or play of note it's not perfectly straight but I'd give this one a pass other than the dirt content we're looking in between these fins right here on this side your your motor's going to run in this direction as it's running it's going to catch air or it's going to catch dirt from the air that way so what we look for is this buildup here you can't just rely on visual inspection for really most anything in this trade

kind of same parts so you got your blower right here part this is your Vaper Co so as you'll see compared to this to the natural gas unit there's no flu pipe so no flu pipe cuz there's no combustible air coming out of this it's just your heat strips that are heating the whole unit these you don't have to deal with carbon oxide which is nice you just got a heat shift I we say you kind of have a a funky smell when you first kick them on so you kind of got your TXV your vortical your blower your Breakers and kind of all this wire your heat shifts are back behind it

this right here is actual fuse block holding fuses in it now typically you won't see a fuse block go out and this is not common to have on most Air Handlers nowadays usually we're using Breakers any kind of trouble we have with it will trip that breaker now fuses can be found all over the system we usually find them in disconnects and different things like that so they are common to most HVAC systems nowadays fuses like these can uh go out just because of any kind of short they really don't usually go out just because of age they're a pretty good component as long as you don't have any kind of problems it's possible to go out just because of how old they are but most time we want to make sure we're checking all other kind of components to see why that fuse went out they usually cost about $95 to replace that can vary based on what sizes they are and and different factors like that

oh we're going to do this all in one wow this is a blower assembly obviously we got the blower motor in here going to be an every kind of unit if you told me that this blower motor was out I would probably say it was just work to death because if you can actually see this blower wheel it is not clean and that's a common problem we see when these go out wheel will not be cleaned that's going to cause more stress on your actual blower motor very common problem if you get about an eighth of an inch of dust you're going to cut your air flow down by about 20% so you can see on things like your limit could be going out because you're not pushing enough air flow through there that's why you want to have things checked out you want to make sure you clean them definitely want to make sure just like this you probably change your filter more often it's going to cost you around $230 roughly definitely would suggest it on this one we're not getting the air flow we need out of it on that blower motor it's going to be a little bit different you can have them last for a while but usually we look at around 10 to 15 years on the life expectancy of it cost for replacing that blower motor is going to be about $650 and up if it was going to be under warranty I'm not going to suggest anything besides replacing the motor that's going to be your best bet

It's late September, and the last thing on your mind is turning on your heater because we finally made it out of the summer heat, and frankly, the cold winter is so far off. Jon Snow, stay away. But you need to do this before you turn on your heater for the season. Let's get into it. So what we see happen a lot of times is people wait till the first 40-degree evening or first 40-degree day to turn on their heater, and I know what you're thinking. It's September. It's still kind of warm outside. The weather is beautiful. We got football on the television. October isn't here yet. Spooky season isn't in full swing, and it's Oklahoma. I haven't turned on my heater yet. I've just been enjoying not having to pay for my utilities to keep my house comfortable. But you need to do this before you turn on your heater for the season, which is, one, we need to turn it on because you're gonna smell some things. It's gonna smell like kind of a burnt marshmallow a little bit. It's gonna, you know, have that dusty, crusty... Like, I kinda like the smell of it, honestly. It's, you know, it's one of those that's like smelling a skunk from, like, a ways off. Like, you smell, it's like, "Oh, what is that?" And it's like it makes you feel alive. You know? It's one of those things. So smelling a heater for the first time, a lot of times people panic and they're like, "Oh my gosh. Something's burning." It's just the dust. It's just the little bit of the debris that has settled on your heat exchanger or on your heat strips, depending on what you have heating your home, for the year. So, like, it's been running, you know, your air conditioner's been running. That doesn't mean your heater wasn't involved. It's in the airflow path, and so the dust and the debris has set on it. Whenever you turn your heater on for the first time, it's gonna burn that stuff off. Do not panic. It's fine. You planned for this. Happens every year. Don't hit the panic button. It's okay. You're gonna smell some... You know, light a candle. B- I'm sure Bath & Body Works has a buy three, get seven candles special going on. At least that's what Cass tells me they have going on at all times is, "We have a lot of candles." Love you, honey. So whenever you turn your heater on for the first time, do not be worried if you smell the kinda, like, burning sensation. But before you turn it on, there's a check right before that that I want you to do, which is if you have a gas heating system, so whether it's natural gas or it's propane, I want you to make sure that the carbon monoxide detectors have had their batteries changed or are plugged in properly. I want you to make sure that you run those through a test because though you're gonna smell the burning crusties and dusties, you're not gonna smell carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is that silent killer. Nobody can smell it. It is the result of incomplete combustion inside of your heat exchanger on a propane or a natural gas furnace. And frankly, it is an avoidable thing that you should take responsibility of as a homeowner. Make sure you have carbon monoxide detectors, and make sure the batteries are changed, and make sure that it's wired in properly. Then go turn on your heater. But that's the first step. That's the one rule is turn it on before the first 40-degree day so you make sure you have heating whenever you need it most, and you're not set on a Saturday afternoon trying to watch football, and you're sitting there shivering. And you're not just cold because your favorite football team hasn't scored enough points, but you're also cold because your heater was never turned on properly. So don't be that guy. Just let your Saturday night disappointment be because your football team isn't scoring enough points, not because your house isn't comfortable. One of these two things is avoidable, and I'm not at fault because you decided to be an Oklahoma State fan. That's on you. Love you, Dad. I'm taking shots. You wanna make sure that your carbon monoxide detectors are plugged in, make sure that your heater has ran at least once before the cold sets in. Then what you wanna do is change your filter. One of the things that I always talk about during heating season especially is whenever we have, you know, guests coming over, fall time is a time of multiple get-togethers. We have just back-to-back to back holidays. It is a constant flow of people coming in, people going out, dogs playing outside, kids tracking in leaves, all the fun stuff that we get to do in the fall because the weather is not actively trying to oppress us. But with that comes we're bringing in more dust, dirt, and debris into the house, and whenever we do that, we are clogging up our filters at a faster than normal clip. So during the fall and the winter, I always recommend changing, if you have one-inch filters, changing those filters at least once a month because you are going to make sure that you're not breathing in burnt crusties and dusties more than you should. You're gonna make sure that your heater is capable of running all season long without having any interruptions at all. This is a preventative thing that you can do that costs you, like, 12 bucks. Just run to the local hardware store, gets you a filter. Change it out. If you have a four-inch filter or, like, a whole home filtration system, things like that, that's a whole different deal. Frankly, that should be taken care of on your preventative maintenance. If you're not on a preventative maintenance, you can get more information down in the description on how you can get a preventative maintenance and get this taken care of for you. But the next thing that you're gonna do is now that we've changed the filter and we've tested the heater for the first time, is I want you to walk around the house. And when you walk around the house, I want you to take note of all the beautiful air registers in your home. They are just gorgeous in their own right. Make sure that all of those are open, please. Don't close them off. And I know what you're thinking. You're like, "But Tucker, my office gets too hot, and I... It's just... Don't put hot air on me." I get it. It's warm. That's a ductwork issue that we could probably solve in the future. But if we are keeping hot air in a duct longer than it should be, what we are gonna do is we're gonna increase the box temperature of the furnace or the air handler. When we increase the temperature of the box for the furnace or the air handler, well, then we hit rollouts. We hit our limit switches. We are gonna cause safeties to start tripping, and the heater's gonna shut off because it is designed to not fail catastrophically, meaning we cause something bad to happen. So how you can prevent that from happening is go around your house and make sure all of the supply vents are open. All right, and now that we've done that, now that all the supply vents are open, I want you to walk around the house and look at all the beautiful return registers and make sure that there is nothing blocking the returns because you should have done this during the filter change. Like, if you have a one-inch filter, it's probably in that return box. But if it's not and it's just at the unit and your ref- returns are elsewhere in the house, make sure that, like, a picture frame or yesterday's DIY project didn't get, like, leaned up against the wall or, like, maybe a couch got scooted over in front of it or something. Make sure that that return is capable of sucking in as much air as it possibly can because that is the other piece of the safety rollout. Now, you're probably not gonna have an increased box temperature because it doesn't have enough air in it, but, like, you know, that's kinda besides the point. If it doesn't have enough air in it to begin with, you're just not gonna get comfortable. Your house isn't gonna get warm. So make sure that your returns are free and clear of any debris, of anything that's been left over from yesterday's DIY, and make sure that no rugs, as beautiful as they might be, got put over a return if your returns are in the floor. So whenever you look at your set point, right, on your heater... I know, again, Tucker, September, I don't wanna think about setting my heater on yet. But have a smart thermostat or a programmable thermostat where you set your band of what your tolerable temperature is because, as you know, September, October, and even sometimes November in Oklahoma can cause you to run both your AC and your heater in the same day. And a smart thermostat is going to allow you to set a band, an acceptable range of temperature. Don't push those any closer than, like, 5 or 6 degrees would be my... You know, you can probably push them as close as 4, but, like, that's gonna cause some unnecessary switching on the system. But set that band of, like, if you're gonna say, "Well, we want it to cool at 74, and we want the heater to come on at 68." Again, if you set your heater to 68, which apparently is the national average, that's like a terrarium to me. Me and Cass, we keep our house, like, at, like, 4. We're, we're, we're not setting the heaters very high. You know, just put a hoodie on. I can only take so many clothes off, but I can get comfy cozy. So nice and cool is where we set our heater. But make sure that you have a smart thermostat that's capable of running a band of temperature and an allowable range for you so that you're not constantly having to run back and forth or open your app and set, "Okay, we want the AC on," or, "We want the heater on." Make sure that you've got it set to where it is in the acceptable band so that you're not having to think about it. It's just done and taken care of for you. That's what home automations are great for. All right, we're gonna touch on a little bit of a safety thing on that first run that we've talked about. So the first run of the heater, we're going back a little bit, I know, but I wanna talk about a safety thing for our gas-heating friends, which in Oklahoma is a majority of our heaters. We have propane and natural gas. And whenever you first flip it on, don't just, like, flip it on and walk away. I want you to kinda pay attention to some things. It... You're gonna stand there for probably 30 to, like, 90 seconds while the gas fills the box up, and you're gonna hear the, you know, the igniter, like the tick, tick, tick, tick, tick. It's gonna, you know, it's actually fun to listen to if you can hear it. So it's like the bells in The Polar Express. Only the people who really know, know. You know? Only the people who can hear it can hear it. And so you're gonna stay in there, you're gonna wait for that the inducer motor kicks on, everything goes. It's, it's a beautiful mechanical system. Willis Carrier was a genius when he made this whole thing. But that delay in the heating cycle is normal because we need the box to fill with gas, not the box, but the heat exchanger to fill with gas so that we can then ignite it and then start the heating process. But what I'm saying is far as, like, the normal goes, the, the dusty, crusty, burnt kinda smell, that's fine. Whatever. But if you start to smell gas, meaning, like, kinda like a rotten egg smell, um, that's gonna be, like, propane and/or natural gas. They smell pretty similar. If you smell, like, a rotten egg, uh, turn it off immediately, probably shut the gas cock off, and call somebody quick because that means you have gas escaping where it probably shouldn't be. Because if you smell gas at all in your heating system, you need help. You need somebody there to take care of it pretty immediately. Again, also, like, if you smell, like, a burning plastic, like, or, like, rubber smell, that's another one. That's not gas. That's more indicative of, like, we have some electrical issues going on or maybe something got into the blower wheel and, like, during the air conditioning season, it wasn't burning. There was nothing there to burn. But now we have something in there that is trying to ignite and possibly melting and causing more damage. So that is the safety warning on that first check that I really wanted to give to our gas appliance friends because ultimately, that is, uh, kind of avoidable, but, like, you can know when to turn something on or off based on the smells. You know, there's a lot of things involved. It's a very sensory experience turning on your heater for the first time and, you know, frankly, it's something that every pro home owner should be capable of doing. So when you turn it on, make sure that you're taking half a second. Listen to it. If anything sounds irregular, turn it off. If you smell rotten eggs, make sure that you turn it off. Or if you smell a burning plastic or rubber, turn it off. That is not the normal dust/like, debris smell of whenever you first turn the heater on. So next we look into it is time to schedule your heater tune-up because it's September. October's on the horizon. Spooky season's about to be in full swing. You need to get your heater tuned up. And whenever I say your heater tuned up, I don't mean, like, have a professional come out there and just, like, pat it on the butt and be like, "Yep, it all looks good." I'm saying they need to come out, they need to inspect the heat exchanger. Make sure that you don't have any cracks in the heat exchanger because over time, those heat exchangers, because we're literally... It looks like a jet in there. I am sure we have footage of it somewhere. It's, like, just It's just actively just, I mean, propulsion is happening inside of that heat exchanger. And over time, as we heat metal, it expands and contracts and, you know, continues to expand and contract. And as it does that, it can, you know, either get rusted or it can cause cracks to start forming. And if cracks start to form, well, that means that we have a potential for carbon monoxide to leak into the space. So that is check number one that happens on a heater tune-up. The next one is making sure that your flue vent is properly seated both on the system and exiting the house. Because if the flue vent isn't exiting the house properly or it's not properly seated on the furnace, well, then we have a problem because the carbon monoxide that should be going out the flue is now exiting into your attic. There was a scary time, Will and Megan were out here in a rent house in, uh, uh, Blanchard, and thankfully it had, like, snowed, and so there was snow all over the roofs of the houses. And Will and I roll up to his house, and I notice there is no snow on Will's house. However, there's snow on all of his neighbors' houses. And I just have this, like, gut moment of like, "Oh, no. All right, we gotta..." Whatever we were doing, I don't even know what we were planning on doing the rest of the day. We were at work, but I was like, "We've gotta figure something out." And I go up in the attic and, uh, at some point I guess they had the roof changed in that, uh, rent house they were in, and, uh, the flue vent never got properly seated, so they were having flue gases expel into the attic causing flue gas to be in the attic, meaning carbon monoxide. Thankfully, no one was hurt. However, what it did do, because heat and cold, whenever they mix, we have condensation. The whole, like, sheeting of the roof was just ice. Um, so whenever it started to thaw, caused a lot of water damage. It was a big deal. Do not sleep on a flue vent not being properly seated or sleep on, like, I don't play with carbon monoxide. So, like, on the first frost days, if you notice somebody, like, if everybody else has frost on their roof line and somebody doesn't, that might be worth a good neighbor knock on the door being like, "Hey, you might need to get your heater checked," because that's indicative of some other issue. Um, or maybe they open the door and it's just a terrarium and the lizard people live there. You could find out. Knock on the door. Okay, anyways, this is check number two, making sure that the flue vent is taken care of. If it's an electric heater, we're gonna check the amperage of the heat strips and make sure that they are not over amping or under amping or that the sequencer hasn't been stuck on and that the heat strip actually shut-shuts off and cycles properly between heat cycles because those are liable as we heat and cool those, they're liable to not necessarily, like, fully melt, but melt the inner workings of the sequencer and cause it to have some issues as far as getting stuck on and then the heat constantly running even though the blower's not on. And then we have just a, a myriad of issues. And those are things that, like, I don't recommend a homeowner doing just because it does require specialized equipment and a specialized eye and training to do. Those are things that we check. Also, we will change the filters for you during that maintenance. So guys, I know that you're thinking, like, "It's September, Tucker. I don't wanna think about my heater." But you need to do these things before you turn your heater on, before that first cold day of the year arrives and you're caught literally in the cold expecting people coming over to eat your football beans and watch a game, and it's not gonna be warm enough in your house, and you're gonna be sad. Because you could have done the blocking and tackling well. You could have made sure that your system was capable of heating your house and keeping you comfortable whenever you needed it most. So if you're curious what it costs to get a maintenance or if you're curious what it costs to have any heater repairs done, you can either click the link below or scan the QR code, and in less than two minutes you can see what it would cost. Ultimately, guys, you can see what it would cost for us to do just about anything in your house. Our prices are all out there. We're not hiding anything. You can see everything that we have to offer in just a couple of minutes or less. Click the link, fill out the form, takes about two minutes, and wham, bam, thank you, ma'am. You see all of our prices right there at your disposal for everything from maintenance all the way to the most expensive repairs that we have available. Beyond that, do something nice for somebody. You never know, it might change their life. I'm out.

electrical wise more the fail on this cuz mostly it's all electric so you got some stuff that can get killed so you got fusible links that can go bad you got you got your Transformers over here you got your two contactors but for your gas one you got more components that can fail this is just more everything that's kind of joined in together that can kill the whole circuit with one part going bad with the gas one depending on which part it can still run but the gas one like you said you got the pressure switch if that goes bad it'll kill the whole unit the inducer not let out the carbon monoxide as the flu pipe the combustible air they both have the pros and cons both of them do certain things a certain way it just all depends where you live at and for your electric bills I definitely recommend having a heat pump it's way more efficient for your uh house utility bill wise

good way to test for the heat strips you want to make sure your heat strips are working the heat strips how they work it starts at your breaker you want to start from your breaker going to your fusible link your fusible link is what goes in your heat kit which sends power to the other side of your heat strips so after you get send power to the other side your heat sh fusible link will go to a limit and your limit what it does is determine if it gets too hot and something's out of whack then it'll shut the unit off for a safety switch so after it goes to the high limit it'll go to your sequencer so after it hit your sequencer it's kind hard for me to show you what it does but or where it is but after it goes to your sequencer it'll come back to your breaker to complete one circuit

This is a blower motor. This is used to push all your air through your system. These typically break in many different ways, but the most common ways are they will lock up or your actual windings will burn up in them. The normal price for the to replace this is anywhere from $500 and up depending on the blower motor. And that's what I tell people when they ask me about this part.

this right here is a relay we find these in many units now it's getting uncommon to find as many relays as we used to one reason is we use control boards which usually have built-in relays in them great components can last a long time they canot this is a really old relay if you can actually tell they're really just taking 24 volts on this one and that powers a coil and it just pulls in these contacts and that's all you're doing is pulling in contacts so you can send out power to like your fan this one to actually control the fan so he gets a 24 volts pulls in those contacts sends it out typical issues we see with these coils can actually go bad they can short out that's pretty common also points can go out one reason you don't see relays like this anymore is they usually enclose them and enclosing them helps a little bit with not having those points go out as fast life expectancy on them can vary between two to 20 years price on replacing normal relays is usually anywhere from $260 and up lots of times you'll get little bugs that get in these relays that's one reason you want them closed up and that's where you see a lot of the problems is just little things that could be prevented and that's one reason the industry has moved away from using just a relay